Straightening is a practice designed to facilitate styling by permanently deforming the keratin chain.
It is a matter of breaking the disulphide bridges (lanthionization) by chemical action and then smoothing them with the back of the comb to give them a stiff shape.
15 to 20 minutes later, neutralization fixes the shape and restores the PH.
The Golden Rules of straightening
The straightening is intended exclusively for naturally curly and frizzy hair, uncoloured, uncoloured and unremarkable.
The test on the wick
This mandatory test allows you to check the strength of your hair and to determine with precision your ideal straightening time.
Always do a wick test before relaxing the entire hair, even if straightening is a habit.
Conduct a regrowth test in case of already relaxed hair.
- Put on the gloves provided.
- Isolate a small strand of hair.
- Mix a plastic teaspoon of Soda Free Cream with 6 times less (1/6 teaspoon) of Activator Cream.
- Apply the relaxer mixture to the insulated wick.
- Leave for 8 minutes (the average time it will take to apply the full straightener).
- After 8 minutes: smooth, then let the additional time to relax (see the selective table of the installation time).
- Rinse the wick thoroughly without wetting the rest of the hair.
- Apply a small amount of Cuticular Regulator, leave for 5 minutes and rinse.
- Apply a small amount of Neutralizing Shampoo, lather and rinse.
To wipe and examine the wick:
- If it breaks easily, DO NOT DEFRISER the hair.
- If there is irritation or burns, DO NOT DEFRISER the hair.
- If it is not relaxed enough, increase the additional time of the straightening without ever exceeding the time
- maximum pose indicated for your hair texture.
- If it is relaxed, straighten with the same timing.
How the straightening unfolds
Reminder: If you come into contact with your eyes, wash them immediately and thoroughly (at least 10 minutes) with running water
and consult a specialist.
If the skin or scalp is irritated during straightening, rinse immediately with water and apply the Regulator
Cuticular and Neutralizing Shampoo. Renew shampoo until the foam is white. Rinse.
Step one. Mixing
Put the gloves on and mix the Weldless Breaking Cream with the Activator Cream(2) using the spatula for at least 2 minutes, until the cream is smooth and homogeneous.
Do not store the rest of the mixed product.
Step two. Preparing the hair
Gently untangle the hair with a wide-toothed comb.
Divide the hair into four equal sections, making a stripe from the centre of the forehead to the nape of the neck and another stripe from ear to ear. Maintain separations with pliers.
Apply Vaseline around the rim of the forehead, ears and neck.
Step three. The app
Set and trigger the timer on the laying time determined by the wicking test.
Apply the stinger cream with the back of a tail comb or brush, avoiding touching the scalp.
Start with the nape of the neck, going up to the top of the skull, then from the ears to the top and finish with the forehead.
The application must be completed quickly because the time devoted to it is counted from the total time it takes to install the straightening.
– Un relaxed hair: apply the cream in the root direction – lengths of the tips.
– Hair already relaxed: apply only to regrowths avoiding parts that have already been relaxed.
Step four. Smoothing
Careful! Smoothing is neither kneading nor pulling on the hair.
Smoothing takes place in two stages:
– Smooth by a gentle massage with gloved fingers from lengths to tips.
– Then with the back of the comb for the roots.
In all cases, do not exceed the straightening time determined by the wicking test.
– Un relaxed hair: smooth all lengths, from roots to tips.
– Hair already relaxed: smooth only regrowth. Lie down on the lengths just before rinsing.
Step five. Rinsing
Rinse hair thoroughly with lukewarm water to remove any traces of cream, not to mention the nape of the neck and ears.
Ensure that the rinse water does not flow into the eyes. In case of eye contact, wash them immediately and thoroughly with water.
Step six. Regulation
Spread the Cuticular Regulator generously over the entire hair and scalp.
Gently massage the scalp and hair.
Leave on for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
The Cuticular Regulator immediately stops the action of the relaxer. Restructuring, it compensates for porous areas and prepares the hair for neutralization.
Step 7. Neutralization
On wet hair, apply Neutralizing Shampoo and foam by massaging the scalp and hair. As long as the shampoo foam is pink, neutralization is not obtained.
Repeat until the shampoo foam turns white. Rinse.
Recommended step: Care
Doing deep care after relaxing helps to revitalize the hair and strengthen it.
Choose a nourishing treatment such as the Actiliss Smoothing Mask-Care and the Actirepair Repair Mask
Consider taking once-a-week care to nourish your hair thoroughly and prolong your straightening.
Recommended daily maintenance:
Remember to moisturize and/or nourish your hair daily using a cream or styling milk (Actigloss Hair Milk, Actirepair RepairIng Milk) or a serum (Actiliss Thermo-protective Serum…).