A Guide to Gem Cutting Styles

Who is not fascinated by the bright radiance of gemstones in jewellery? Rich beauty does not leave any living soul indifferent. But it would be a deception to claim that the luxury of diamonds is natural. This is the result of the masters who have perfected the technology of gem processing for centuries.

What are the cuts? What is their specialty? And what is the difference between a high-quality cut and a substandard cut?



The art of gemstone processing originated about 6 centuries ago. Ancient masters polished only natural facets of the diamond. But they did not know how to give a new shape to the jewels. The cut process looked primitive: one stone was rubbed against another, that’s it.

Simultaneously, the ancient Indians discovered another technology on the anvil strong diamond crushed into powder, which was applied on a grinding disc. That’s how large diamonds were processed.

New faces on the precious stone created by Louis van Berchem. It happened in the 15th century. He was the first to make a diamond in the form of a drop. Today, only small diamonds are processed in this way.

Over time, different countries have developed increasingly sophisticated cutting technologies that allowed diamonds to be shaped in different shapes with different facets. Thus, in the 20th century, there were diamonds, numbering even 146 facets.




Round cut

The shape of the stone that is applied in any decoration. It was invented in the early 20th century. At that time began to use saws with small diamonds on edge, which cope with the strongest mineral on the planet. The standard is a round-cut gem with 57 faces. So, it will open profitable sides, striking with brilliance and depth. But besides, this number of faces reduces the risk of chipping and damage to the jewellery.

On small stones (up to 1 carat) carved 33 and 17 faces.

Interestingly, during processing, the stone’s mass is greatly lost (up to half the weight). Because of this, such diamonds are expensive.



Rings, pendants, earrings – for these decorations use stones with a cut “Marquis”. It was named after the Marquis de Pompadour. More precisely, her artful smile. Although for many, this form is similar to a boat. The lack of cut is in the fragility of pointy limbs. They are vulnerable to blows, as such a cut was created for “aristocrats.”


Oval cut

Oval stones are used in necklaces, rings, earrings and pendants. Oval diamonds appeared in the 60s of the last century. It is one of the subspecies of the round cut but differs more area. A ring with a diamond-like this will visually stretch your fingers and make them more refined.



The pear-shaped stone is suitable for earrings, pendants and necklaces. It combines something in common between the Oval-Cut and the Marquis. For reliable operation, the stone is protected by a narrow frame. Encrusted in jewellery, it lengthens the neck or fingers, looking about what decoration to talk about.



The square shape of the stone with sharp angles fits any decoration except bracelets. A strong brilliance characterizes baguette. It has the shape of a rectangle. It was invented on the verge of the 60s and 70s of the last century. When processing the stone loses a little in weight and refers to budget jewels, rather than diamonds of the classic round cut.

Today, this cut is popular, especially in wedding rings. True edges of this jewel are fragile and require careful handling or a reliable frame.



Cut in the form of a rectangle with bevelled corners and large faces. This form is given only to massive stones with good purity readings because, with such a cut, the slightest flaw becomes noticeable. But the refracted light “plays” in the edges of the “emerald” is not as strong as in the round cut or “princesses.”



This cut is similar to pear-shaped. A stone in the shape of a heart beautifully shimmers in the rays of light and looks very romantic.

The stone looks best with equal length and width. This gives beauty to the stone and makes it more resistant to blows and falls.



Stone, in the form of a triangle with equal sides first began to be processed in Holland. This is the youngest cut invented in the 1980s.



The first thing to remember is that only a quality diamond in the future will become a beautiful, shining diamante. But, of course, without the right cut can not do. It directly affects how the rays of light will shimmer in the edges of the diamond. The coloured stones cut does not affect the beauty of the stone, but strongly affects the depth of colour.

To assess the cut’s quality, you need to look at the top of the stone, called the platform. It is crucial because it is the most visible. If the diamond’s quality is assessed, the first thing is to check whether the entire surface is shiny or there are dark spots on it. When checking the coloured stone, the view on the site estimates the saturation of colour. It is also assessed how symmetrical the site is located and whether it is in the centre. The round diamond cut by all the rules has clear, smooth parallel lines at the court’s edges. In this case, they form the right octagon.

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